It’s cold enough outside to officially call it. It’s ham season. Not the sad, spiral kind. The real centerpiece stuff.

Lucky for our meat-obsessed society members, Serious Eats just dropped two timely guides that basically say the same thing in different ways: If you’re going to do ham this season, do it right, and don’t wait until everyone else has the same idea.

First Things First: What Kind of Ham Are We Talking About?

Not all hams are created equal, and Serious Eats does a solid job of clearing up the confusion before you head to the butcher.

There are three lanes:

City hams: These are already cured and cooked. These are what most people smoke for the holidays. Your job is reheating, glazing, and adding smoke without drying them out.

Country hams: Think prosciutto’s Southern cousin. These are dry-cured with salt, hung for months in carefully controlled conditions, and lose a significant amount of moisture along the way. The result is a deeply concentrated flavor with a sweet, mildly funky edge. Some are smoked, some aren’t, but they’re usually sold raw and require soaking and careful cooking. Incredible, but not beginner-friendly.

Fresh hams: This is the uncured rear leg of the pig. No brine, no smoke, no shortcuts. Fresh hams cook more like a pork shoulder and can be smoked low and slow or cured at home if you want to go full DIY. They take more time and planning, but reward patience with big flavor and flexibility.

For most holiday cooks, a quality city ham is the move. Country hams are a project. Fresh hams are a commitment.

Pick accordingly.

Why Smoked Ham Wins the Holidays

Ham is one of the few holiday centerpieces that actually benefits from smoke without stressing you out.

According to Serious Eats, smoked ham checks every box:

  • It reheats beautifully at low temps

  • It feeds a crowd without babysitting

  • It leaves you free to focus on sides, drinks, and not burning the house down

Light fruit woods like apple or cherry add depth without overpowering the cure. Finish with a glaze in the last stretch, and suddenly your house smells like December should.

Order Early or Regret It Later

The second Serious Eats piece that we pulled is a warning shot.

Good hams sell out. Especially the ones worth smoking.

Mail-order options will let you skip the grocery store chaos and actually choose quality. Heritage breeds, better curing, and consistent sizing all make life easier when you’re feeding family or hosting.

If brisket is your weekend project, ham is your holiday insurance policy. Order it early, stash it cold, and thank us later.

Check in with the Serious Eats experts to find the brand that is best for you.

The Move

A successful, meaty Christmas season is about preparation. Order early. Smoke slowly. Let the pit do the heavy lifting while you handle the rest.